Crimpd Max Hangs. What are your metrics for edges? 20mm one hand/minimum edge/max han

What are your metrics for edges? 20mm one hand/minimum edge/max hangs etc? I I weigh about 70kg and use the same Max hang protocol as you (Crimpd app). If you can get your full crimp up to your max level over a year, expect major things outside. I've been really enjoying coming up with new designs for no-hangs. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. From this So go slowly, slowly as you work your way from 3-4 grades below your max to your max. edge and max hangs can be effective as well. I was able to do hold 155lbs. Also comparing time under tension between That is, on max hang day, you should feel 110% recovered/fit, and do the max hangs immediately upon reaching peak performance for it (after sufficient warmup). Then went to middle edge one arm hangs on the BM2k, maxed at 86% BW (weight removed), though that was mostly learning how to do removed weight hangs/one arm hangs and keep good half crimp Emil Abrahamsson’s Sub-max Daily Fingerboard Routine! Sub-maximal isometric hangs - 10 seconds on, 20 off with varied grip positions All exercises should be performed using an 18- I try to do a couple of sets of max hangs once per week, mostly because that's part of my team's workout, partly because doing it with some slight progressive overload keeps my fingers happy, and For the 'max hang test' protocol its 8 sets of 7 second hangs, 2 min rest, slowly building weight until you get failure around set 6-8. As an example, a hard bouldering session lasting 1-2 hours could be Don't max hang or add max hanging and stop using the word max hang. Alternating months of repeaters and max hangs, or min. Once I Eva Lopez' minimum edge protocol is awesome and my favorite of the max hang type protocols. I think whoever posted "yielding eccentric" was either making a very subtle Crimpd app described the test so well that I don't know what can be confusing. Hooper’s Beta Ep. The smallest edge on my hangboard is 15mm (very slippery metolius light rail) and I’m doing a 10s on/2 min off Max Hangs and Repeaters in the Same Session? I just finished 8 weeks of max hangs and the minimal edge protocol and I managed to get a stronger max! Now i am moving onto an endurance cycle and I Sounds dumb, but for max hangs its helpful to go all out. I've been doing 3 weeks of Max hangs, then 1 week break, and then back at it, hanging 2x a week. The test hangs were 5 seconds for one arm, 7 seconds for both arms (as per crimpd). When I I did my first hangboard cycle this winter using the Anderson brothers repeaters exercises -- two-armed hangs, 7s on 3s off increasing weight decreasing grips per set, three sets per I've been experimenting with early morning max hangs as per the crimpd app but struggle to manage 90% of my 7 sec rep max whereas a post work session this weight feels ok. Either nobody buys this or everyone flocks to it and they absolutely rake it in. Lattice must be making some serious money by now, £27. Also, 20 seconds is too long to hang unless you're doing hangs to rehab an injury. Twice a week following a rest day Warm-up 10-15min 1x 10 sec Started with max hangs about 2 weeks ago because of work commitments and weather here in Canada. I al Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. hangs, or repeaters. The ability to hang in control, at your maximum, on one arm, is Depending on all of these factors, you could potentially still train with longer duration hangs/more reps/less rest at a lower weight. Second one arm hangs, especially because it will be less strenuous on your back since you probably won't be hanging given your max hang numbers (conversion 34 votes, 41 comments. I am looking for advice on when to transition the open crimp grip to one arm hangs. Protocol is six reps at 10 secs each with 3 mins rest as per the 95% weight option on the crimpd app. While each alone provides modest benefits, Emil Abrahamsson’s Sub-max Daily Fingerboard Routine! Sub-maximal isometric hangs - 10 seconds on, 20 off with varied grip positions All exercises should be performed using an 18- The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a 10-minute low intensity hangboard finger strengthening protocol ("Abrahangs"), compared with the generally accepted Max No hangs aren't a bad idea either, especially if you can track how much weight you're loading on your fingers for example with a body scale - just make sure you're well rested and don't overtrain. I never really felt like I got much out of Maisch's max hang protocol for some reason. Complete the following 6 sets of hangs using a fingerboard / hangboard or edge which is approximately 20mm deep. I wanted to start/continue a discussion about the costs/benefits of these types of hangboarding. Basically, write down every way you can think of to train finger strength and switch between them A brand new hangboard regimen consisting of two sessions per day, everyday, without ever leaving the ground For hangs, the muscle action is essentially isometric / fixed-length, and resists eccentric action, hence "yielding isometric". Everyone is individual but as a rule of thumb try to keep a fingerboard session to under 20 minutes until you're experienced at it. Just saying. hangs. This includes what I learned from months of trial and error. You just add weight until you reach failure before 7sec and your previous set is your max. 50 lifting pin? £60 pinch 74 votes, 40 comments. I follow the Crimpd protocol which actually gets you to hang about 90% of your actual max but you can easily reduce this number Max hangs is actually submaximal work, at extended time under tension (usually ~10s per hang), with incomplete recovery between hangs of 2-3 minutes. Wow! My original plan was to That's how I used half crimp in real life on rock-- and that's how I train it for max hangs. I managed 52. Hanging near your max regularly is just waiting for an injury to Once home i bought a lattice rung, and did pretty much only max hangs with half crimp for 3 weeks (3 sessions a week, can't hang too much, +12kg max weight @ 71kg). 5 each. The edge used in training should be the same as that used in the finger strength testing session. I couldn't even complete the full sets at bodyweight initially. Having recently benchmarked myself, I found that my 2 handed max crimp on a 20mm edge improved significantly (by about 5kg) when I locked off at about 90º. It's harder to get this right which is why many people on max hangs plateau though. 128 How to Train Finger Strength with Block Pulls (aka Farmer Crimps, No Hangs) I think the point of the post is not to just hangboard correctly: But seriously focus on maintaining the grip you intend you strengthen--specifically the half-crimp, because it is an entirely different crimping Crimpd. I Can low-load, long-duration hangs build finger strength in climbers? We break down the Abrahangs study and what it really means for your training. Max grade outdoor v7 - injured for 18 months now (hence the finger training) so bad correlation, legs are fucked 2A hang +97lb = 163% on 20mm tension grindstone (reps of 7s, not max max). 5kg on each arm separately, giving a theoretical max. But other than being sorted by energy systems and time, there isn't much discussion about why you would choose one workout over the other. Maybe we are lost in translation here, but I would describe myself exhausted after a very pumpy or powerfull This video goes over my tips and progression of learning the one arm hang on the 20mm edge. It’s also a lot nicer to have weight hanging on a 1 Arm vs 2 Arm Hangboarding Recently I was testing max hangs and I noticed something weird. 3 minute rest between each hang For example; Max Hangs before 40% repeaters. With two arms, I can hang on 20 millimeters for 5 seconds with 20 mm max weight hangs - endless progression or switch to specificity? I started 7-53 hangs (half crimp) on the BM 1000 20 mm edge in August this year with only bodyweight (93 kg/ 205 lbs at 184 cm/ 6 I am currently doing a 7/53 Horst "max hangs" protocol using four grips (open crimp, 3F, full crimp and pinch). BW: 140# Max hangs, 10 seconds, open crimp: 85# + BW Max hangs, 10 seconds, half crimp: 40# + BW I have two issues that prevent me from half crimping efficiently: Physiologically, my fingers won't How do I plan my Max Hangs? I’ve recently been doing a lot of max weight hangboarding. Adding in 3 other grips seems questionable. You can get super strong doing 3 hangs. Something about the different muscle engagement pattern just unlocked it for me. My main complaints with the commercially-available Want to get strong on slopers and pinches? Here's how: Session: Pinch Block Max 90% 1️⃣ 6 sets 2️⃣ Rest: 00:30/ rep, 01:30/set 3️⃣Resistance: 90% of maximum The goal of this workout is to That being said, Max Hangs session intensity is based on your current ability, usually 85%-95% of your absolute max, and Eva Lopez's research also showed that Max Hangs produce How To Improve One Arm Hangs It appears that the one-arm hang feat is 100% about finger strength, but this is not true. Stick with this very reasonable repeater system and don't think about the weight or the hand position too much. Emil Abrahamsson made to his max hangs after following his no-hang hangboarding routine for one month: These results show significant Both heavy-load (Max Hangs) and light-load (Abrahangs) fingerboard protocols improve finger strength in climbers. Having looked at/ spoken At heavy weights, two arm hangs start to feel rather non-sport specific, so I encourage progressing to one arm hangs, even if you need to remove weight. Before the winter started I did some max hangs and went from +45 to +50 lbs added weight, and that was after doing about 6 weeks of the hangs. 3" or 33 mm. Then slightly different protocol for '90% Max Hangs' 6 sets The hangboard protocol I decided to follow is the 7:3s 40% deadhang repeaters on the Crimpd app (10 sets of 6 7:3s repeaters at 40 percent of max load, one minute rest between sets). The most added weight I’ve ever been successful with is about 13kg (83kg total) and Train like a pro using the Crimpd app for iOS, Android, and the web. Over that time I've gone from about 127% BW 2-arm on a I would tend to question whether you are truly doing max effort hangs if you are essentially doing 12 hangs total and with only 2 minutes rest between goes. So far I've only done two sessions but was thinking about doing After finding a glaring open hand weakness, I've decided to switch doing my max hangs from half crimp to a more open grip. Or Max Hangs before your Joe Wicks Home HITT routine. You should now notice that when you’re climbing, you’re way more comfy on crimps, and hopefully a lot stronger. It works great for me, it's certainly more "strength training style" than 7/53- longer rests between sets allow for higher quality hangs. Actually, as max hangs are a strength exercise, i don’t think you should feel exhausted. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a 10-minute low intensity hangboard finger strengthening protocol (“Abrahangs”), compared For one-arm hangs, the reasoning was that 5" was a better indicator of the maximum strength of the forearm, whereas 10" was a better duration for training maximum strength (due partly to Henneman's The Crimpd app has a large repertoire of workouts. 741 likes. Embrace the process, drop your training weight significantly, and do every hang with We found that the max hang is ~10lbs less weight than the bent arm hang but the failing point on these hangs is never muscle related always fingers opening out of a half crimp. Also in one of their videos they say that, based on their data, the half crimp and 3 14 votes, 39 comments. Has anyone ever done a I noticed my fingers tend to "drop" from an half crimp position to an open-hand (index and pinkie extended) under high loads like max hangs. That's all well and good but here is the thing. The edge used I do the Lattice max hang protocol in the Crimpd app. I prefer max. My first Crimpd app test was +17kg. But as the science suggests, I feel the most Six months ago I did the Crimpd app Max Hang Protocol. I'm doing 3-finger drag no hangs now. Either do Max Weight hang protocols hanging for 10 seconds and resting for 2-3 minutes (you can Google the rest), or do The Crimpd app says that most of the deadhanging should be done in a half crimp. That said, I noticed that I never really Compared to one arm max hangs, no hangs are easier on my shoulders and upper body Cons: You need the weights (might not be a problem for you) I feel like slight changes in position of the hand or I do max hangs year round in short, 4 week cycles. I started doing what I thought was a half crimp but it turned out it is a chisel or campus grip. I also did it, and found no changes. I do experience carryover to full crimp and open from max hangs. You’ll learn when - if all else fails (or if you just can't figure out why max hangs are harder at the moment), suck it up and start over. Wait so you can hang 10 seconds on a pullup bar? That doesn't seem long. Reply reply maestroest • I did the protocol 2x per day and my weighted hangs went down, but my fingers feel I've been training this grip type for about six months max hangs now and, for reference, I do 8 sets of 7s hangs @150% bodyweight on the smallest BM1000 This article breaks down proven methods like 5-second max-load hangs, intermittent repeaters, and reduced-intensity endurance sets. I did their assessment and max hangs @ 90% on a 25mm edge worked out to exactly bodyweight. Crimpd is a climbing specific training app. I guess doing one arm hangs means I am true I don't think jumping into max hangs would be a bad thing. Potentially it could be interesting for you to start with density hangs as well and add the max hangs a few cycles later on. Not saying this is your issue -- my 2 arm max hangs were about the same with the two grips, so I think I always actually had Max hangs can be good for long term strength if there is sufficient volume of climbing to force adaptations. +75lbs open handed and 155lbs+95lbs half crimp. Either try max. Learn how to take your climbing to the next level. I'm doing max hangs twice a week (previous hangboarding was once a week). Working on the "20mm" crimp on the RPTC board (angles down) and I am currently hanging at Maximum Pull & Max hangs? I am obsessed with climbing, as everyone else on this subreddit pretty much has to be. Alternating between Strict Half Crimp Max No Hangs 20mm and Weighted Open Half 6mm. One cue that might help you is to ease into the hangs 1-2s before the hang starts and slowly take your feet off the ground while pulling into the grip. Progressively build The goal of this workout is to improve forearm and finger strength. I just started doing the max hangs exercise on the Crimpd app. I’m looking for someone on here that’s been through this to give some information Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. While using the Crimpd App you can log each exercise you do this allows you to see the numbers and overall feeling change throughout the My three finger drag is my weakest grip by far (about 16kg weaker than my half-crimp on max hangs), but adding it into my training repertoire has helped quite a bit with deadpoints, especially on the Get on the hangboard, use strict half crimp. Limit bouldering is a whole body workout where . At the time I was already climbing V10 outside. I know I couldn't do endurance work day 1 Just in case you are up for a little DIY. true Quick (weak evidence; like OP) anecdote: I started hanging in early 2020: Max hangs. The goal of this workout is to improve forearm and finger strength. It helps with Here is the plan : Max Hangs Plan: Using ½ crimp on 16-20 mm edge First, find how much weight results in hang time of 13 seconds. Wondering if that indicates that my half crimp is weaker The numbers Crimpd gave me (a boulderer with terrible power endurance) was for +10kg repeaters @70%. You can experiment with 4-6 weeks, but I feel this is Max Hangs - Really Really Large Edge I've been doing max hangs (140% of my BW) using the largest edge on the beastmaker 2000 which I found out to be 1. Hangboarding is a versatile training method that can be tailored to fit individual Personally, I've seen great gains over using max hangs and weighted min edge hangs. Twice a week, for 5 weeks I did max hangs on 19mm half crimp I’d hang at around 150% BW for ten seconds I use it all the time to track my progress on max hangs and for different repeater protocols. And for the past 3 months I've done virtually nothing but max hangs with very little other bouldering or training-- again about 1-3 times per week. Training frequency and rest – Do not do two strength sessions on consecutive days. I'm using the crimpd app. If you're doing V7-8 you should be able to add 30-40% of your bodyweight on an 18mm (3/4") edge. On Saturday I set up a pulley I've been doing max hang fingerboarding twice a week for the last two months. We use the latest training knowledge and data analytics Longtime lurker making my first post with a question about progressing on max hangs. of 105kg for both. Today I tested METHODS: We retrospectively evaluated the change in grip strength and Strength: Weight following Max Hangs, Abrahangs, or the two protocols performed concurrently in rock climbers who used the Honestly, 12 7-second hangs at a high percentage of max is too much.