. Sep 22, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 38. Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to 90 degrees with extension of the distal interphalangeal (DIP) joint. What are you crimping, and where are you crimping?2. Oct 15, 2021 · In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. Full crimping is a much more active gripping style than half crimping. Do you like open Jun 3, 2025 · For all skill levels and both sexes, slightly higher forces in open hand than in half-crimp position werefound. It is nearly impossible to say that any method of fastening or type of tool is better than another. There's tons of options with wide ranging prices, which are all pricey for a tool that isn't used a whole lot for a small operator. This is why most climbers use either a half crimp or full crimp when climbing. significantly stronger in open crimp vs half crimp, better to focus on half crimp? started max weight hangs, my open crimp on 20mm is body weight + 50% for close to 8 sec, but half crimp i can only hang with +20% ish. I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. Is that a problem? I have been climbing for close to two years (3 times a week for one year) and have always just used open hand on crimps. On the left is an open hand crimp. I don't know how true this is, but I do notice that the front 3 open-handed grip is preferred by a lot of sloper masters (Nalle, GG Mondet, many Bleausards). Four finger half crimp 2. When I first started rock climbing, everything seemed so intimidating. We distinguish between three grip techniques: full crimp half crimp open grip The safest but most technically demanding grip is the open grip. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3. The index, middle and ring fingers are bent at 90 degrees, the pinky may be slightly straighter and usually contours the hold, and the thumb either rests next to the index finger or pinches the side of the hold, if possible. Half/full crimping is generally a lot more helpful when moving off a hold and/or locking off because it allows for a more secure grip on the hold but any move made with a half crimp can be made with an open hand crimp too. The guys over at Beastmaker claim front 3 strength translates to strong open-handed strength, while back 3 strength translates to crimp strength. I know I need the ability to use crimp connectors, possibly a stud lug for terminating in a panel Nov 28, 2022 · But, the second our crimping friend encounters a hold that requires a more open hand position, like a pocket or sloper, they’re unable to generate anywhere close to the same level of force. Mar 27, 2019 · Using edges Half Crimp The half-crimp is the utility grip, which is used for most flat, sloping and in-cut edges. Sep 21, 2023 · Train with both the half crimp and open crimp grips. Half crimping stresses the fingers more than open crimping, but you will find that it is a much stronger grip. Like you said about the open hand, its easy if the hold is above you and your wrist is pulling down comfortably. Getting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. Unusual Half Crimp I use a weird grip when trying to half crimp. If I try to add my pinky it must be a half-crimp position, no other way. Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1. Karol Józef Wojtyła was born in the Polish town of Wadowice. Nov 9, 2021 · I think a half-crimp allows you to control more outward force than an open-handed grip once you're gripping a hold between your shoulder and waist height, whereas, when you throw for a high hold you're more likely to end up catching it in an open-handed way. Check out our list of the ones we tested plus some additional models we think look great. I personally do half crimp but I do open hand on any pocket-y type holds. How to Train the 22mm Half-Crimp ONE ARM HANG (and actually get it) bossclimbs 11. As you see the joints are in a fairly natural position with nothing being overextended. Though this type of crimp is safer to use than the full crimp, you should still pay attention to how your hand and wrist responds to movements and be cautious of overuse and straining your tendons. Crimp holds are divided into three different types: full crimp, half crimp, and open hand. Does wrapping your thumb over your index finger make you cringe? You may be missing out on some serious pulling Half Crimp Perhaps the ‘Pièce de résistance’ of climbing grips, the ‘Half-Crimp’ is the most versatile finger position, performing well on crimps, ledges and slopey holds. The Flexor muscles are those involved in cl Jun 3, 2025 · Many climbers believe that they are stronger in crimp finger position than in open hand position. Unless you are really pulling on that project, I suggest half crimping for the majority of your crimps. This is a popular grip for campusing, finger-tip pull-ups, endurance training and warming up, simply because 12 votes, 15 comments. This position gives my pinkie more access to the hold and puts less force on my index and middle finger. Whenever I try hangboarding half crimp my pinky finger eventually gives up and turns it into open hand. Closed crimps are preferred over full crimps. Wrist curls are great for those who have problems controlling the position of their wrist. Aug 15, 2017 · To half crimp, increase contact with the hold by bending 90 degrees at the middle knuckle. gastons, some side pulls, some slopers, etc. Aug 21, 2025 · Many climbers believe they are stronger in a half-crimp grip than in an open hand grip. Indoor and competition climbers are more often best in the open crimp position. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. Breaking news, live coverage, investigations, analysis, video, photos and opinions from The Washington Post. The middle finger, due to its additional length, tends to be slightly more articulated than the pointer and the ring. As with almost anything in the plumbing world, there is a time and a place for everything. May 1, 2024 · As stated above, the open-hand crimp is a good grip to conserve energy but will give you less strength than the half or full-crimp. Feb 7, 2014 · The evidence is in the amount of people that have ruptured their tendons using a closed crimp compared to an open hand. May 16, 2020 · Obviously the ability to crimp connectors is expensive. Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. Alternatively, it will depend on your finger length. Maybe that's why some people use open-hand naturally and other use half-crimp? Because I never use open-hand, it just feels dodgy every single time if hanging on small edges. Here is a little writeup from Lattice training suggesting a stricter half crimp is better for benchmarking. If you do a 3 finger drag, it's possible to have completely straight PIP joints on at least 2 of the fingers. gresham on February 23, 2024: "MORE GRIP TIPS - 3. Now, this isn't always an FDP issue. OPEN CRIMP & CHISEL: The ‘chisel’ and open-crimp grips represent the middle ground between a half-crimp and an open/drag grip. It’s best for most flat and incut edges, especially if the edges are larger, and can even be deployed on slopers and sloping edges. S. A short form deep dive into the half crimp and open hand finger position for fingerboard training. There are three different crimp grips, the open hand grip, half crimp and full crimp grip. HALF CRIMP GRIP POSITION OPEN HAND GRIP POSITION On some climbs it will likely be necessary to half crimp to keep yourself on the wall, so getting comfortable with half crimping is a good idea. Jan 29, 2019 · Is it normal to find this quite a bit harder than open hand? Does anyone tend to progress this further to a full crimp? For looking to start weighted deadhangs, I was thinking of varying between open hand and half crimp (after longer working on increasing half crimp strength)? Or do people tend to focus on just one grip type? This article seems to have some useful info that touches directly on the half crimp vs chisel grip and the difference in using each when climbing vs hangboarding. For me it's physiologically impossible to use 4 fingers open even on a 20mm. If you're just starting out then yes, you should focus on climbing open handed as much as possible since the connective tissues in your fingers aren't yet strong enough to handle the added stress of harder crimping. But training half crimp somehow made pinch projects way easier. I recognised that I default to crimping on everything except completely sloping holds. Especially strong climbers can also perform a hang or two using the three-finger drag and two-finger pocket grips. PEX pinch clamps and crimp rings are certainly no exception. I think half crimp seems to require the most actual strength (whereas open handed relies heavily on skin friction and connective tissue strength), and so I think if you're training strength half-crimp gets you the most bang for your buck. Before you pick what type of crimper, you need to answer the following: 1. Full crimping and more aggressive angles in DIP/PIP joints puts a bit more pressure on the pulleys compared to open hand or strick half crimp. Oct 30, 2025 · The best PEX crimp tools on the market are made with effectiveness, ergonomics, and ease of use in mind. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. From what I understand from the training blogs, articles, podcasts, etc. This position is the most efficient grip position in terms of the flexor muscles of the forearm. This is the grip position defined by the extension of the pointer, middle and ring fingers. Jan 4, 2024 · The open-hand crimp, also known as the half crimp, is the most widely used type of crimp grip. If that's true, then yes, I'd prefer to train the correct half crimp grip. The half crimp and full crimp allow for a different variety of force application, and should be trained with that in mind. Once I realised this, I tried to use an open-hand grip as much as I could, but my brain seemed to be hard-wired to crimp. I spent the last 40 days forcing myself to get better at the half and open Learning how to incorporate the full crimp into my training for climbing has helped me grow immensely as a climber. The best and most advanced climbers are the ones mastering all three positions. The wedding portrait of John Paul II's parents, Emilia and Karol Wojtyła Sr. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. To 6,926 likes, 19 comments - latticetraining on April 17, 2025: "Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. Open hand vs three finger drag? So for a good couple years I've just been training half crimp and 'open hand', however I've been doing 3 finger drag as my open hand. You should not expect more open hand gains from half crimp than directly training open hand. g. I recently noticed my open-3 drag is much weaker than my half crimpabout 45 lbs weaker. Did anyone have a similar experience? If so i would appreciate any help. The chisel is effectively, a half-crimp where the index is kept straight. Feb 2, 2025 · Since the half crimp grip is more difficult, half crimp training will help develop the muscles and tendons in your fingers and wrists. May need to rework half and full crimp if they are irritating and/or avoid certain climbs which put rotary stress on the fingers (e. does the open crimp not translate well to half crimp? and which one is more important? Jun 3, 2025 · If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed -the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever possible. Jun 27, 2023 · With a pinch grip, you'll use a half-crimp or open-hand grip while your thumb pinches the opposite edge. I'd say adequate warm up has more of an impact on likelihood of injury than open 3 vs half crimp Oct 4, 2017 · What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. I'm gonna train up this grip… We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Putting this in to practical terms, it would mean hangboarding with an open grip using only the middle three fingers as opposed to putting my hand into a possibly compromising position for the sake of using my pinky, Does anyone else have any input on this? TL;DR: Long vs. Jul 26, 2021 · You’ll start (using a mobile board) on the half crimp position, and you’ll move slowly into an open hand position. I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. One downside is that a lot of energy is wasted cranking to a full crimp every time I hit a small hold. I assume the pinch position has a very active grip position that emulates the half crimp isometric grip. After reading this I looked properly for the first time at how I was gripping. half crimp with and without the pinky involved? He claims that you should rather train the half crimp, as the half crimp will make your chisel grip stronger as well, but the chisel grip will not make your half crimp grip stronger. They suddenly feel several grades weaker and give up quickly. and international news Dec 19, 2015 · Ibid, p. It isn't dangerous if trained regularly. All while having the fingers loaded with appropriate force. May 19, 2009 · We have all found purely training and climbing open handed has allowed sufficent benefits, allowing us to open hand all but the smallest holds, and still not hindered when needed to crimp like f**k. training half crimps is effective at targeting the muscles used for open hand as well as full crimp positions with one exercise. Are you new to crimping? Not sure what the difference is between each crimping shape? Don’t worry—we've got you covered! In this blog post, we will review the differences between each crimping tool and help you choose the right one for your needs. I do try to train open hand, but on projects crimping is a necessity. Compared to an open crimp/drag hold, this handhold position allows you to continue using the handhold even as you move above the handhold. May 10, 2022 · Sometimes on very small micro-edges, a full-crimp may provide better traction or on larger edges an open/drag grip may provide a more restful alternative, but generally speaking, the half crimp is the way to go. Therefore, this study aimed to determine how accurate climbers could assess their maximal finger flexor strength in half-crimp and open hand positions. I noticed that most of the holds on hard boulders outside are sharp, small, incut crimps which I do very poorly on due to the holds forcing a half/full crimp. However, the crimp places greater stress on finger pulleys, raising injury risk. 1K subscribers Subscribed Feb 8, 2021 · A climber enjoying bigger holds and finger pockets on limestone will develop their open hand technique. Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. The correlations with route grades were similar. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It's a good strong half crimp strength stimulus without getting into some of the limiting factors on the DIP joints that you can get with the <10mm crimp edges. 327 likes, 11 comments - neil. half-crimp: Do climbers assume differences in their own maximal finger strength that do not exist? Carla Zihlmann1, Paul Ritsche2, Andri Feldmann3, Lisa Reissner4, Martin Keller2, Peter Wolf1 * 1 ETH Zurich, Sensory-Motor Systems Lab, Zurich, Switzerland 2 University of Basel, Department of Sport, Exercise and Health, Basel Every crimping position has its application. Jun 3, 2025 · If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used wheneverpossible. May 29, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Because of the smaller angle, the body needs to be positioned more carefully. As discussed in chapter 4, full crimping is mechanically stronger than open-handing or half crimping when on small holds. He describes your positions as: open hand half crimp crimp full crimp He also has drag which is even more passive than your open hand position (ie really relying on friction!) Feb 9, 2020 · First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. I don't feel any pain when half crimping but it hurts really bad when I'm trying to use any open hand position. Using a bigger variety of grip positions (especially the 4 finger half crimp in with open 4) builds much stronger, more robust and higher performing finger strength in the long run. Correct placement reduces the risk of injury. Aug 25, 2019 · Continue to do finger rolls and open hand hangboard, especially if they don’t aggravate it to re-establish hand strength. I also can't really tell if the pain comes from the ring or middle finger. Basically, drop weight/increase edge size for crimp. Nov 19, 2025 · A crimp in rock climbing is a type of climbing hold that will only fit your finger pads. does the open crimp not translate well to half crimp? and which one is more important? Specificity 2. 1 day ago · Hawaii's top source for breaking news, Hawaii news, business, sports, politics, arts and entertainment, traffic, weather and more. It's better to train half crimp on an edge/weight thats a little too easy so that you're at least sure to always keep proper hand form, than train it on an edge/weight that's too hard so that you always drop into an open hand. However, the crimp grip is associated with higher pulley forces, increasing the risk of finger injuries. Not only does it relate to the size of the hold you’re trying to grip, but open and crimp activate different muscle groups in the forearm. Oct 16, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. ). Subscribe for the latest on U. Discrepancy in crimp strength open hand vs. A half crimp is the preferred crimp because it spreads the load more evenly between the tendons and pulleys. Aim to position your fingers on the hold so that the weight is distributed through the pads of your fingers and not the tips. And I also dont feel any pain when pressing against the pulley area on the fingers. Whether you're a new or advanced climber, functional training with YBells is an excellent way to help you improve your grip strength. Crimping ain’t easy. It seems like most good climbers I see get more power from half crimp and full crimp. It is also quite simple, with all fingers bent at a 90-degree angle (the pinky finger may straighten slightly) and the thumbs disengaged to the side of the hand. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. Maybe that's why I crimp everything so hard. [21] Emilia, who was a schoolteacher, died from a heart attack and kidney We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Download scientific diagram | The open ‘ crimp ’ grip position from publication: The Flexor Tendon Pulley System and Rock Climbing | Rock climbing has increased in popularity over the past two Feb 8, 2021 · A climber enjoying bigger holds and finger pockets on limestone will develop their open hand technique. Open hand puts less stress on the last joint in the finger, but takes much more force along the tendons and so it takes more training to get strong enough to do it. short pinky, open hand vs. I noticed while doing weighted hangs on beastmaker 20mm that I naturally rotate my wrists outward so that my fingers aren't perpendicular to the hold but at a slight angle. In Ned Feehally's beastmaking book. Jun 3, 2025 · Open hand vs. Three finger drag 3. Jul 13, 2021 · So, when training on a hangboard, you’ll usually start by holding a static position, the “dead hang”, with different hand positions like full-crimp, half-crimp and open hand. I am significantly stronger half crimping than open hand, mostly because I don't do any open hand hangboarding anymore. Nov 9, 2022 · Front 3 drag (open) 4 finger half crimp (closed) What actually happens when we train our grip? Neurological adaptations: Typically, these are quick changes that happen specific to a new protocol and include increasing the magnitude, rate of firing and synchronisation of motor units. [19][20] He was the youngest of three children born to Karol Wojtyła (1879–1941), an ethnic Pole, and Emilia Kaczorowska (1884–1929), who was of distant Lithuanian heritage. half crimp Hey all, After been mostly an indoor climber for 6/7 years, I’ve slowly been transitioning to outdoor bouldering. Important Tip: Crimp holds primarily engage the fingertips, so proper finger placement is crucial. I've always assumed three finger drag was open and have never really thought about an open crimp with four fingers. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. between open hand and half crimp; it is neither. Jan 31, 2022 · HALF VS FULL CRIMPING Half crimp training alone cannot fully prepare you to crimp with all your might on a tiny edge. How to Climb Safely with Half crimp and Full crimp Climbing Grips It is critical to know how to be safe when using grip techniques, whether you are a first-time climber or have completed several climbs. Open hand activated the deep muscles that have more mass than the superficial ones activated by crimp. I crimp most of the time and haven’t been injured yet.

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